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Ballet Belles: A Glimpse into the World of Dance Costumes

By Natalia Petrovna, Principal Dancer, Royal Ballet

Ah, the ballet costume! The epitome of grace and elegance, it's more than just fabric and thread - it's an extension of the dancer's own art. And just as trends come and go in the wider fashion world, the world of ballet costume design is far from stagnant. This month, let's delve into the intricate world of dancewear, taking a look at what's making waves across the globe.

A Timeless Classic: The Tutu

No discussion on ballet costumes is complete without a nod to the queen of them all, the tutu. This ethereal creation, symbolising innocence and ethereal beauty, comes in various styles, each adding a distinct character to the performance. The Romantic tutu, with its billowing tiers of tulle, remains a staple of classic ballets like "Giselle" and "La Sylphide". Its airy lightness perfectly captures the fragility and otherworldly charm of the ballerina.

Modern choreography has seen the evolution of the tutu, with choreographers like Wayne McGregor and Christopher Wheeldon experimenting with innovative shapes and forms. The "Neo-Classical" tutu, a sleek, modern iteration with fewer tiers and sharper lines, has become a contemporary ballet favourite. Think of a ballerina in "The Dream" or "La Bayadere", with her elegant silhouette punctuated by a neo-classical tutu.

Beyond the Tutu: The Emerging Trends

While the tutu remains a cornerstone, modern dance has embraced diversity, and costumes are no exception. This shift towards a more contemporary aesthetic has given birth to exciting new designs.

  • Minimalism reigns supreme: Designers are drawing inspiration from fashion's love for clean lines and minimalist shapes. This trend translates to sleek leotards and pants in bold, striking colours. This style shines in contemporary pieces by choreographers like Jiří Kylián and William Forsythe, where the dancer's body and movement become the focal point.
  • Prints and textures take centre stage: From graphic prints to shimmering metallics, there's an explosion of patterns and textures adding another dimension to contemporary ballet. Choreographers are incorporating prints to communicate character development and storytelling. Imagine a dramatic performance by the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, where colourful prints weave their way into the story.
  • Celebrating cultural diversity: Ballet, a world of international expression, reflects the growing awareness of diverse cultural aesthetics. Incorporating traditional elements of textiles, colours, and patterns adds a unique flair to costumes. A stunning example is Akram Khan's "Gnosis" where intricate details and vibrant hues pay homage to the choreographer's Indian heritage.

The Importance of Comfort and Performance

Of course, aesthetics are only part of the story. The ballet costume, whether a classic tutu or a contemporary jumpsuit, must allow for maximum movement and flexibility. It's about striking the perfect balance between artistic expression and the dancer's physical demands.

  • Lightweight fabrics are key: From tulle to cotton to modern performance fabrics, dancers rely on lightweight materials that move seamlessly with their bodies. This not only promotes ease of movement but also ensures breathability and temperature regulation, particularly during strenuous performances.
  • Thoughtful construction: Seams are designed for optimal comfort and to prevent chafing during intense dance sequences. Hidden adjustments and well-placed seams offer support and freedom of motion.
  • Custom tailoring for perfect fit: As dancers are all shapes and sizes, each costume is tailored specifically to ensure a perfect fit, allowing for unhindered movement and full artistic expression.

A Dancewear Journey: London, New York, Paris

To gain deeper insight into the current ballet costume scene, let's take a journey through the capitals of dance, showcasing iconic designs that have graced the stages of legendary companies.

London: The Royal Ballet:

  • A tradition of exquisite craftsmanship: The Royal Ballet continues to uphold its reputation for classic and elegant costumes. For traditional pieces like "Swan Lake," the graceful tulle tutus are meticulously crafted, with an attention to detail that reflects the ballet's elegance. In "Romeo and Juliet", the delicate fabric textures capture the romance of the story, and contemporary pieces by Wayne McGregor showcase daring and innovative silhouettes.
  • Collaborations with leading designers: The Royal Ballet is known for its collaborations with designers. Recent examples include collaborations with Alexander McQueen on his avant-garde pieces like "Blackout" and with the renowned designer Christopher Kane who created modern dancewear for McGregor’s "Woolf Works". These partnerships further showcase the company's willingness to push boundaries while embracing the evolving world of costume design.

New York: American Ballet Theatre:

  • Bold statement-making costumes: American Ballet Theatre embraces bold choices, celebrating both tradition and contemporary innovations. In the grand pas de deux from "Don Quixote", the elaborate tutu and intricate details highlight the Spanish spirit. Choreographers like Twyla Tharp create dramatic costumes with powerful statements.
  • Cultural influences on costume: American Ballet Theatre has consistently featured costumes influenced by different cultures, further adding a global feel to the company’s repertoire. In Alexei Ratmansky’s "Shostakovich Trilogy", a striking mix of colors and silhouettes evokes Russian themes. This blending of global styles creates a captivating stage presence.

Paris: Paris Opera Ballet:

  • Romantic elegance and refined simplicity: The Paris Opera Ballet is renowned for its timeless elegance and sophistication. The classical tutu in "Sleeping Beauty", a masterclass in intricate craftsmanship, embodies the exquisite ballet aesthetic.
  • Blending classicism with modern flair: The Paris Opera Ballet's approach to costumes balances traditional styles with contemporary trends, reflecting its long-standing tradition of pushing boundaries. The costumes in Benjamin Millepied’s "Clear", a modern piece with a minimalist approach, capture the choreographer's style and focus on movement and form.

From Simplicity to Opulence, A Ballet Costume's Journey

Ballet costumes are a testament to the creativity and artistry that permeate the dance world. Their evolution highlights how tradition and modernity coexist within the world of ballet. They may be intricate and extravagant or deceptively simple, but always, they reflect the power of art to evoke emotions and stories. The next time you attend a ballet, take a moment to appreciate the costumes - their textures, colours, and details are a powerful element that bring the ballet's magic to life.