AI Ballet Review 161

Oh, darling! September has arrived, the air crisp with a touch of autumn, and I’m just bursting with excitement to discuss the very essence of our beloved ballet: **costumes**. They're the final flourish, the exquisite icing on the cake, a whisper of a story that dances before our eyes.

This month, let’s delve into the enchanting world of **international costume trends**—a fascinating blend of tradition, innovation, and pure, unadulterated artistry. From the breathtaking grandeur of Russian ballet to the bold modernity of French and American stages, I’ll guide you through a sartorial ballet tour de force.

Darling, when one thinks of ballet costumes, Russia is practically a byword for elegant simplicity. Their tradition—with its roots in the legendary Mariinsky and Bolshoi theatres—is synonymous with the iconic *pa de deux*. Imagine flowing tulle, sparkling diamond-encrusted headdresses, and exquisitely fitted bodices, all reflecting the delicate, feminine grace of the ballerinas.

Think *Giselle*, with its exquisite romanticism, where ethereal white tutus swirl around like snow in a summer’s breeze. Or *The Sleeping Beauty*—every seam a whisper of opulence, a fairytale brought to life. And of course, we can't forget the sumptuous silks, brocades, and jewel-toned velvets that adorn *Swan Lake's* iconic Black Swan, a symbol of both darkness and fierce, seductive beauty. These are timeless, dear friends, pieces of dance history brought to life, a tradition passed down through generations.

Across the channel, darling, France has been experiencing a captivating costume revolution! Gone are the days of traditional tutus; instead, they've embraced avant-garde designs that blur the lines between haute couture and stagecraft.

Contemporary ballets in France are all about bold shapes, fluid textures, and a fearless disregard for convention. Designers like Christian Lacroix (think vibrant colors, flowing drapes, and theatrical eccentricity) and Jean-Paul Gaultier (his deconstructed tutus with their striking mix of materials and asymmetrical designs are, quite frankly, iconic) have set the stage for a new wave of artistry. Imagine leotards transformed into shimmering armour, tutus reinvented with asymmetric lines and abstract patterns. French ballets have truly embraced a bold and futuristic aesthetic, pushing boundaries and thrilling audiences with each new performance. It's breathtaking!

From the vibrant dance companies of New York to the bustling energy of Los Angeles, American ballet costume designers have taken a decidedly modern approach, prioritizing both innovation and artistry.

Gone are the frills and flounces of the past—think modern minimalism! Designers like the fabulous Marina Amato, a true visionary, have pushed the envelope with costumes that often appear to be sculptures themselves. Imagine breathtaking geometric lines, minimalist palettes, and the sheer elegance of sculpted forms. She even dares to embrace unusual textures and materials! This season, she created stunning costumes made from fabrics such as sheer organza, satin, and even mesh! It's daring and modern—a truly modern and chic interpretation of dancewear, and oh, so elegant. And, as the creative heart of American dance, designers here have embraced a wonderful range of stylistic influences, blending elements of fashion, sculpture, and even contemporary art! And the result is, simply breathtaking. A whirlwind of imagination and modernism, if you will.

But what are our favourite ballet costume designers up to in 2009? Here are some of the most noteworthy new designs that have us gasping for air:

• "Giselle" at the Bolshoi, Moscow: Darling, the legendary ballerina Svetlana Zakharova has captivated the world with a "Giselle" that has re-imagined the iconic peasant costume. The dress is now made of an ultra-lightweight gauze fabric, creating an airy and ethereal feel. She moves like a dream in this exquisitely crafted design.
• "The Sleeping Beauty" at the Royal Opera House, London : With a touch of 21st century glamour, the Royal Ballet’s production of *The Sleeping Beauty* has captivated audiences with the use of lavish velvets, crystal beadwork, and exquisite, glittering fabrics.
• "Cinderella" at the Paris Opera Ballet: In this vibrant production, the famed French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier’s "Cinderella" costumes were a joy to behold! He blended the familiar with his distinctive deconstructive designs. The exquisite fairy godmother costume was an art form all in itself—modernity meets whimsical storytelling. You’ve simply *got* to see it!
• "The Nutcracker" at the New York City Ballet : The famed American ballet choreographer Peter Martins took inspiration from vintage art deco for this season’s production of *The Nutcracker*. And the result was a dazzling showcase of geometric lines, jewel tones, and captivating silhouette.

Costumes aren't just fabrics, my dears. They're extensions of character, embodiment of emotion. They speak volumes in their flowing shapes and intricate detailing. Each stitch and ruffle is an opportunity for an expression of mood, for storytelling with the human body at its centre.

A glimpse of a bodice in *La Sylphide* and we understand the ethereal grace and romance of the piece. In a mere dance-like movement of a *Black Swan* tutu, we're transported into the fiery passion and alluring beauty of that classic character. The subtle shifting of colours in the tutus of *Don Quixote* show us a whole narrative in itself!

Just like any artistic expression, ballet costume design is constantly evolving, always reflecting contemporary fashion, the evolution of dance, and the world around us.

This constant adaptation and evolution is one of the many reasons that keeps me so captivated. It’s a reminder that ballet is never static. It’s ever changing and breathing, much like the heart that beats in each ballerina’s chest.

From classic to contemporary, I urge you to take a closer look at the dance costume. It’s more than just fabric. It’s a language. It’s art on the human form. Let's not forget those amazing dressmakers, seamstresses, and costume designers who give us these extraordinary pieces!

For the month of September, we celebrate their creativity and craftsmanship, and marvel at how these intricate pieces come together to tell stories, ignite emotions, and lift us to new heights of imagination. Now that is what we call a masterpiece, darlings!