AI Ballet Review 273

Ballet: Fashioned for the Body, Designed for the Soul

January 2019

As a ballerina who has graced stages from the Bolshoi to the Royal Opera House, I've always held a deep affection for the sartorial world of ballet. There's an unparalleled artistry in the design of our costumes, each piece meticulously crafted to elevate the dance and embody the very spirit of the performance. Let's embark on a tour de force of global ballet costume trends, where elegance meets athleticism and fabric whispers a story as powerful as any pirouette.

The beginning of the year always makes me yearn for the exquisite grandeur of traditional ballet. The classics never fail to enchant. This year, I’ve witnessed a beautiful return to the romance of the Romantic era. It’s all about delicate tulle, diaphanous silks, and lavish embroidery. Think airy tutus, shimmering bodices, and flowing sleeves – elements that create a truly ethereal presence on stage.

The Bolshoi Theatre remains a bastion of grand tradition, and its costumes are legendary for a reason. The grandeur of the designs is matched by their intricate details. Exquisite embellishments, intricate beading, and sumptuous fabrics take center stage. They create a dramatic and captivating visual spectacle that epitomizes Russian opulence.

• Think swirling, shimmering dresses in shades of deep sapphire, emerald, and crimson. These opulent colours capture the majesty of the stage, while the intricate patterns and beading tell tales of Russian folklore and mythical figures.
• An abundance of tulle and delicate lace. It allows for ethereal movement, adding a layer of romance and captivating the audience with each graceful turn and arabesque.

The Parisian ballet world is always ahead of the curve, embracing contemporary design and challenging tradition. Yet, there’s an underlying classicism, a refinement in the fabric and the way the costumes move on the body.

• Experimentation with colours. Deep navy, smoky grey, and burnt orange, often infused with a hint of gold or silver, provide an understated luxury. They also highlight the dancer's sculpted physique in a striking way, without distracting from the artistry of the movements.
• Unique, intricate silhouettes. Think draped, fluid lines, minimalist cuts, and the use of sheer panels. This contemporary approach to design creates a streamlined aesthetic that perfectly captures the grace and fluidity of modern ballet.

British Panache: A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity

From the Royal Ballet to Birmingham Royal Ballet, British ballet has a knack for balancing heritage and innovation. The costumes showcase both classical beauty and contemporary flair.

• The traditional tutus are still revered, but they’re often infused with unique designs and colour combinations, drawing inspiration from both historical references and modern fashion trends.
• A play on textures is another highlight. Smooth silks mingle with textured fabrics like lace and velvet, adding depth and dimensionality. This gives the costumes an element of modern edge, while still retaining the essential elegance of ballet.

American Elegance: A Statement in Innovation

American ballet companies have a reputation for pushing boundaries and embracing new artistic trends. This translates beautifully into the world of costume design, where innovation is celebrated and unconventional choices are applauded. It's a melting pot of creativity, and the results are thrilling to watch.

• Experimentation with form, colour, and materials is highly encouraged. From abstract shapes to striking color combinations, American designers embrace boldness and a willingness to redefine the boundaries of the classical.
• Collaborations between designers and choreographers have created truly unique and innovative designs. This blending of disciplines allows for costumes to be seamlessly integrated into the overall aesthetic and concept of the performance.

Dance Through the Years: A History in Layers

Over the decades, we’ve seen a remarkable evolution in ballet costumes, reflecting societal shifts, artistic movements, and technological advances.

The tutu, the iconic symbol of ballet, has had its fair share of transformations.

• The Romantic tutu: This early 19th-century tutu, with its knee-length layers of tulle, was created to accentuate the lightness and grace of female dancers. It signified freedom of movement, and its romantic appeal helped to revolutionize ballet aesthetics.
• The Classical tutu: In the late 19th and early 20th century, the tutu evolved. It became shorter, emphasizing the dancer's legs and feet, creating the dramatic and visually captivating form we recognize today.
• The modern tutu: Today, we see designers pushing boundaries, reimagining the tutu, and experimenting with unique silhouettes, asymmetric lines, and unusual materials, challenging the conventional definition of a “classical” tutu while still embodying the essence of the style.

Beyond the Tutu, other elements have played vital roles in defining the evolving aesthetics of ballet:

• The use of pointe shoes. Their delicate structure, designed for balance and support on the toes, played a significant role in transforming the dancer’s presence and enabling them to execute complex steps with a mesmerizing ethereal quality.
• Bodices, both form-fitting and flowing. Their development echoed fashion trends, from corseted silhouettes in the 19th century to sleek and minimalist lines in modern times. The beauty of the bodices is their ability to compliment the body and exemplify the dancer’s athleticism.
• Fabrics: We have seen a shift from traditional fabrics such as satin, silk, and lace to the inclusion of modern synthetics like nylon and lycra. These fabrics offer improved durability, comfort, and performance-enhancing qualities. Yet the fundamental goal remains the same: to ensure that the costumes not only enhance the dancer's performance but also provide a canvas for artistic expression.

My Fashion Favorites: A Ballet Fan's Guide

While I admire all styles of ballet costumes, some are particularly near and dear to my heart.

• The flowing chiffon gowns for contemporary pieces: Their luxurious softness and ease of movement beautifully capture the emotion of modern ballet, adding layers of ethereal elegance to the dance.
• The intricately detailed, hand-painted costumes for traditional ballets: The elaborate embellishments and exquisite craftsmanship pay tribute to the art of dressmaking and serve as testaments to the historical significance of ballet.
• The sleek, form-fitting costumes for neoclassical pieces: They beautifully showcase the dancer's physical strength and graceful athleticism, complementing the clean, precise choreography of modern ballet.

From Elegance to Expression

For me, a well-designed ballet costume goes beyond the realm of simply clothing a dancer; it acts as a conduit of expression. It complements the music and choreography, embodying the spirit of the performance. A good costume can make or break a ballet, enhancing the dancer's artistry and captivating the audience.

As we move forward into the new year, I am eager to witness the evolution of ballet costumes as designers continue to push boundaries, redefine the traditional, and create masterpieces that tell stories and stir emotions.