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A Fashionista's Guide to Ballet Costumes Around the World: A Review for November 2020

By Antoinette Rose, Principal Dancer at The Royal Ballet

Darling, November is upon us. The air is crisp, the leaves are turning, and the theatre is aglow with the magic of ballet. Of course, any seasoned ballerina knows that the dance is only half the story. The costume, darling, that is the other half, and oh, how it completes the tale!

This month, we shall embark on a whirlwind tour of the world's most captivating ballet costumes. We'll delve into the history, the fabrics, the designs, and the sheer artistry of it all. We'll be meeting designers, discussing trends, and discovering the hidden details that make a costume truly spectacular.

From Paris to London, New York to Moscow:

Firstly, let's take a little trip across the channel to the city of love. Paris has always been synonymous with elegance and finesse, and this spirit is reflected in their ballet costumes. At the **Paris Opera Ballet**, the traditional tutus are crafted with a sublime attention to detail. Imagine shimmering silk, painstakingly layered, with just the right amount of puffiness to accentuate each movement. Each garment is an heirloom, an embodiment of Parisian chic.

Over at the **Royal Ballet**, my dear home, we have a different take on elegance. British design tends towards a more streamlined look. The costumes are less extravagant, more subtle. They prioritize movement and freedom, allowing the dancer to express themselves fully. The use of traditional materials like tulle and velvet creates a timeless appeal, evoking a sense of tradition and history. Think sleek lines and impeccably fitted silhouettes, all crafted with the highest quality fabrics. I always say, darling, it's all about letting the dancer speak through the costume, not overshadowing them.

Heading across the Atlantic, we land in New York. The **New York City Ballet** is known for its dynamic, contemporary style. Here, costume design embraces boldness and innovation. Think unexpected cuts, daring colours, and the integration of modern materials like Lycra and Spandex. They dare to push boundaries and redefine traditional expectations. In this dynamic city, every costume is a statement, an exploration of self-expression through movement and visual artistry.

But no tour of the ballet world is complete without a visit to Moscow. The **Bolshoi Ballet** boasts costumes steeped in imperial tradition. These tutus are truly spectacular. Imagine grand, extravagant ball gowns made with acres of silk and layers of tulle, all embellished with sparkling crystals and precious stones. They embody the glamour and romance of the Russian ballet, the height of dramatic expression.

Tutu Twists: Unveiling the Latest Trends

This season, we're seeing some truly exciting developments in the world of tutus. Forget the standard white, darling. This year, colour reigns supreme. Expect pops of bold reds, electrifying blues, and vibrant purples to adorn the stage. Gone are the days of traditional tutus being confined to specific ballets. We're seeing creative reinterpretations for diverse productions, pushing the boundaries of artistic expression.

There is also a distinct movement toward sustainability within the ballet world. Designers are increasingly utilizing recycled materials and eco-friendly techniques to create exquisite and ethical costumes. For the modern dancer, sustainability is a core value, and we're excited to see the creative ways it's being integrated into the ballet world.

Spotlight on Fabrics: Unveiling the Layers of Ballet Beauty

Speaking of sustainability, we're thrilled to see more eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled nylon making their way into the costumes we see on stage. These fabrics not only perform well, but they are kinder to our planet, which is a cause that is close to our hearts. The classic fabrics, however, still hold a very special place. We'll discuss those next.

First and foremost, let's discuss **tulle**. The very soul of a tutu, tulle is the lightweight, airy mesh fabric that allows for billowing volume and movement. The softness of this fabric ensures ease of movement and that dramatic flair. But, did you know tulle isn't just tulle? There are different weaves and thicknesses to cater to specific demands. From fine French tulle to heavier, more structured nets, the choice is truly fascinating. A good designer understands which tulle will bring their vision to life.

Another fabric we simply can't live without is **satin**. It is known for its shimmering beauty and its luxurious feel. Its smooth, lustrous finish makes it perfect for accents like bodices, leg wraps, and sleeves, adding a touch of glamour and richness to the costume. It’s the classic choice for capturing light on stage. But remember, darling, satin isn't just for elegant touches! Designers can use it in bold new ways to achieve unique silhouettes, creating stunning textures and surprising depth on stage. We are always intrigued to see satin being utilized in ways it hasn’t been before!

No ballet costume would be complete without **velvet**. Velvet adds richness, depth, and opulence, evoking royalty and elegance. Its luxurious feel and captivating shine make it a statement fabric, giving the costume a timeless sophistication. While we've always loved velvet's velvety touch, modern costume designers are using it in exciting new ways! It's appearing on skirts, tops, and even shoes. These unconventional touches breathe fresh air into an otherwise traditional material, allowing it to stand on its own.

A Look at the Makers: Designers of Ballet's Most Iconic Costumes

Behind the magnificence of every ballet costume is a gifted designer, a true artist who shapes not just fabric, but dreams. Here are a few of our favourite designers, whose creations continue to captivate and inspire.

  • Christian Lacroix. This iconic French designer is renowned for his dramatic, opulent style. He effortlessly merges historical references with modern flair, bringing a touch of haute couture to the stage. His work is known for its intricate details, bold colours, and theatrical presence. His creations often evoke a sense of drama and grandiosity, pushing the boundaries of traditional ballet costume design.
  • Christian Dior. A household name in the world of high fashion, Dior’s influence extends to the world of ballet, with their legendary costume designs capturing the timeless elegance of ballet with couture-worthy touches. Their designs embody femininity and grace, featuring meticulous construction and a harmonious blend of traditional and contemporary styles. Dior costumes stand out for their sophisticated yet simple design. Think of those flowy, layered skirts that drape beautifully as a dancer leaps and twirls, emphasizing the lines and fluidity of ballet. Pure, elegant sophistication at its finest, darling!
  • Jean-Paul Gaultier. Gaultier has brought his signature blend of provocative artistry and street-style sensibility to the stage, redefining the look of ballet with a sense of individuality and boundary-pushing design. His use of unusual materials, unconventional cuts, and bold colour combinations brings a truly contemporary edge to traditional forms, inviting a sense of playfulness and questioning of conventional norms. His innovative designs have revolutionised costume design, leaving a lasting impression on audiences around the world.
  • Alexander McQueen. This visionary designer’s bold designs are marked by a dramatic, darkly romantic edge that elevates ballet to another level of visual artistry. With their exquisite construction and innovative details, McQueen's costumes become powerful visual metaphors that elevate the dancer's movement, taking their performance to a completely new level of artistry. He masterfully integrates historical influences with modern sensibility, creating striking pieces that evoke a sense of theatricality, power, and undeniable artistry.

Beyond the Fabric: Costume and the Narrative

Beyond their aesthetics, ballet costumes hold a deep connection to the narratives they tell. Each piece is meticulously chosen to reflect the story and the characters it portrays. It’s the story in a new form. For example, imagine a dramatic pointe shoe that looks worn, perhaps torn a little at the toe, or embellished with subtle, elegant glitter. Each small detail adds to the tale! The costume becomes an essential element in conveying character traits, emotions, and plotlines.

The Future of Ballet Costume

Darling, the world of ballet is an ever-evolving dance, and we can only expect the costume designs to continue to grow, to be pushed, to reinvent themselves. Ballet, by its very nature, is an exploration of the body and its expressive capabilities, and the costumes simply have to match that push to constantly redefine how we experience movement and art. We are eager to see what creative interpretations we'll encounter next. We shall, no doubt, see an embrace of even more diverse fabrics, materials, and silhouettes.

So there you have it, darling. This is the world of ballet costume in a nutshell, a tapestry woven with tradition and innovation. As November unfolds, embrace the exquisite details, the creative ingenuity, and the artistry that goes into each piece. May the dance floor sparkle, may the movements enchant, and may your enjoyment of the magic of ballet, in all its intricate beauty, be immeasurable. 😇