Wednesday, 21st September 2011
Bonjour mes chéries! It's Emma here, your pink tutu-clad correspondent, reporting live from Prague, the City of a Hundred Spires. My little heart is bursting with joy, it truly is a fairytale city! After my enchanting trip to Paris, the romantic pull of Prague beckoned me. A charming cobblestone city of fairytale turrets and pastel houses, a city that makes your imagination swirl with waltzes and a love of all things pretty!
Oh, the magic of train journeys! Arriving by train after a leisurely lunch in a quaint French bistro was the perfect way to soak up the beautiful scenery. The landscape melted into an explosion of vibrant greens, sun-kissed yellows and the blush of a late summer sunset.
Of course, I was dressed for the occasion! My new dusty pink tutu, with layers of tulle and a sparkly bodice, felt like the most appropriate outfit for the occasion. The French girl who served me at the bistro just smiled knowingly and gave me a 'chapeau' before I hopped on the train. I am so fortunate to live in an age where pink tutus are considered "chic" rather than just for fancy dress. It seems even French girls are giving my favourite fashion statement a knowing nod!
A Little Tutu History...
Did you know the earliest mention of a "tutu" in fashion appears in an 1832 novel by Jules Janin? This novel mentioned the dress of the infamous Italian ballerina Marie Taglioni. Marie became a sensation for her ethereal ballet, "La Sylphide," a piece so radical and light for its time that she chose to wear a white tutu with a diaphanous, gauzy material.
The original, much debated 'tutu', the romantically short tutu, with its knee length skirts and its lightness and flowiness, took the world by storm, not just in dance, but also on the streets. This short, light, romantic form of the tutu went through a number of fashionable iterations before finally landing on the more rigid, more traditional shape of the Romantic Tutu, popular in the second half of the 19th Century and The Classical Tutu, (or Tutu Ă la Taglioni, which, in essence, are essentially identical to the style we still see on ballet stages today, made with layers of tulle on a bodice and the famous, iconic knee-length skirt.)
The more contemporary Bell Skirt tutu (as opposed to the tight-fitting classical tutu), became extremely popular with dancers in the 1970s and continues to this day, as seen on the Royal Ballet Company in recent years, or the stunning ballerina Maria Kochetkova, who graces many stages in this fabulous version. I know my blog, pink-tutu.com, (where you can read my weekly updates every Wednesday!) has been pivotal in helping to move the tutu out of its theatrical cocoon and onto the streets! My dream of making tutus a key element in everyday fashion, is steadily becoming a reality, thanks to all of you!
But back to Prague. As I said, arriving by train meant an unforgettable journey. When the train finally pulled into the station, the cobblestone streets seemed to welcome me with a sigh of ancient romance. After a quick cab ride to my hotel in the Old Town square, I knew it was time to get lost in this magic! I am sure everyone knows Prague is a feast for the eyes, and for this passionate balletomane, the architecture itself was already giving me ideas for new interpretations of the classical tutu.
The iconic Charles Bridge - a must for any visitor to the city! Strolling across this ancient stone bridge, I had to keep reminding myself it was just a bridge, as I found myself enthralled by its story, the many sculptures of saints lining the path, the intricate carvings on the bridge and the views up and down the Vltava river - it felt more like I was entering a fantastical, painted scene, rather than just crossing from one side of a river to the other!
Naturally, my first afternoon in Prague was spent exploring the shops on the Old Town Square. The streets are alive with charming boutiques bursting with the aroma of fresh gingerbread, local beers, and the sweet, pungent smells of exotic spices and candles. I fell in love with a tiny little boutique crammed full of antique lace and vintage silk. It was a perfect haven for a pink tutu enthusiast. Imagine my delight when I found a tiny hand-stitched tulle tutu, the colour of the finest pale pink rose petals, tucked away in the corner! It seemed a piece of history had been waiting just for me. It went straight into my bag, of course! I have a confession. I sometimes just pick up pieces I don't have an occasion for but just because they're so beautiful and I think, "Who knows when I'll be wearing this?" Luckily my life involves plenty of ballerina outings, fashion shows and even weddings to justify my "collecting habit!" But if that little pink tulle doesn't find a special occasion, it will still make a splendid decoration for my studio... if I can ever bring myself to part with it.
Evening Ballet Bliss
I had been eagerly anticipating a visit to the Estates Theatre - it is where Mozart conducted the first ever performance of "Don Giovanni" on 29th October, 1787! The sheer majesty of this building was an experience that left me breathless. The architecture, a harmonious marriage of Renaissance and Baroque, whispered of countless theatrical performances from across the centuries!
To walk the hallowed ground of such an iconic theatre - and where my beloved Wolfgang Amadeus had created music of such timeless magic - felt surreal. This evening's show was a magnificent ballet called "Sleeping Beauty". It had its debut in Russia but with the legendary Nijinsky and a very young Anna Pavlova performing! It was the ballet that made Diaghilev's Ballet Russe famous. You can imagine my utter glee at watching it.
The whole theatre had that delicious aura of "theatre magic" that always surrounds such spaces. It was such an immersive, passionate and beautifully executed production, complete with elaborate sets, breathtaking costumes, and a truly magical story. The ballerinas were absolutely phenomenal - each movement felt effortless, fluid, and utterly captivating! The costumes were truly a feast for the eyes: swirling tutus, vibrant colour palettes and some exquisite corsetry for the beautiful princesses, as well as some magnificent golds and blues for the gentlemen. There was an intoxicating mix of opulence, romance and passion in the air.
After the performance, I took a lovely stroll through the cobblestone streets. The city glittered in the moonlight, with the iconic spire of the Tyn Church against the dark sky. I grabbed some delicious, cheesy strudel from a little bakery (heavenly!) and sat by the side of the Vltava River, sipping a hot chocolate, and contemplating what to wear for my next tutu outing.
Thursday: Fashion and Fairytales
Waking to the enchanting call of birdsong, I felt that familiar sense of wonder that Prague evoked in me. Today's mission was simple: Shopping! It felt utterly appropriate to delve into the bohemian world of the Prague fashion scene.
The Old Town was abuzz with artistic energy, independent fashion designers and charming boutiques crammed with vintage finds and whimsical treasures. After grabbing a delicious breakfast at a local café (I was delighted to discover they had croissants for breakfast and served with jam... almost as good as Paris!), I headed for the streets where my shopping sense whispered that the most beautiful finds would lie!
The streets were brimming with independent designers - such a delightful contrast to the soulless anonymity of large chain fashion stores that are found in the West. It felt incredibly invigorating to be able to meet with the creators of these unique pieces, ask them questions about their inspirations and browse for gems that truly reflect their passion.
I fell in love with a gorgeous, pale-pink shawl with intricate floral patterns (it will be perfect with a simple, plain black tutu for my next theatre outing). I also spotted some fabulous hand-painted ceramics in the shop of a delightful, quirky artist. She proudly displayed her signature porcelain pieces decorated with pastel-coloured flowers - the colours and the styles echoed a whimsical fairytale beauty. It seems even Czech artists, too, are under the pink tutu's magic spell!
Fashion Finds...
Every girl knows itâs not just the new tutu thatâs vital! Thereâs a certain "ballet street fashion" look thatâs been evolving since the beginning of tutus in dance and has taken on new life these last few years with "ballet-core", a fabulous new way to express yourself. I spotted a pair of gorgeous velvet, rose-coloured boots with a beautiful lace detail in one shop that felt so "ballet street fashion." I even had to persuade the sweet owner, who reminded me of an "Alice in Wonderland" character, that a white ribbon, and a beautiful silver tiara, (I'm a "little princess at heart, you know!), were the perfect accessory for my new look! She didn't think my accessories were "quite what her shop's customers looked for," but agreed to sell them to me because "there was no harm in a little whimsy". (She's not wrong!) What a joy to meet people with such a strong sense of their own personal style!
As the evening drew near, I strolled through the charming streets of Prague, still brimming with shopping delight. I paused to admire the glowing, medieval architecture that reflected the fiery hues of the setting sun, a breathtaking backdrop to the beauty of this magical city. The echoes of music spilled out of the ancient doorways, an enticing mix of lively gypsy melodies, the sounds of laughter and animated conversation, making Prague truly a city that sings! As the day ends, I find myself reflecting on this journey, already dreaming of a return trip and imagining the new tutus I'll need for the perfect fashion pilgrimage to this beautiful place. As I drift off to sleep, Prague has me spellbound. This city truly captures the spirit of a ballerina - all lightness and elegance. It's as though even the cobblestone streets of the Old Town were made for pirouettes. Iâll be back. That, I know. For this is a place that inspires the dreams of a tutu-clad girl from Derbyshire.
Stay tuned next week for more from Prague. (And, of course, more tutu tales from yours truly!)
Emma
(P.S. For all my dear ballet followers, let me know in the comments what YOU like to wear for ballet outings, whether youâre at the theatre or heading to ballet class. I always love reading about YOUR unique sense of fashion and tutu style. And donât forget: every dayâs an opportunity to âtutu the worldâ in a fabulous way!)
